If you visit Japan in summer, you may often see the word "Obon" mentioned in the news or on social media. Obon is actually one of the most important annual events for Japanese people.
Simply put, Obon is a period when the spirits of ancestors are believed to return to this world. In Japan, it's believed that the souls of family members and relatives who have passed away come back home for a few days each summer. If you're familiar with Halloween or Mexico's "Día de los Muertos" (Day of the Dead), you may find it easier to picture. However, Obon is a quieter occasion, focused on family gatherings and honoring one's ancestors.
What Is Obon?
The Origins and Meaning of Obon
Obon is a Buddhist tradition that originally came to Japan from India by way of China. It carries the wish that, by honoring the souls of the deceased, they may rest peacefully.
Today, Obon carries not only religious meaning but also serves as a time to reaffirm family bonds.
When Is Obon, and Which Businesses Close?
While it can vary by region, Obon is most commonly observed from around August 13 to 16.
During this period, many companies in Japan close for "Obon holidays." People who work far from home return to their hometowns to spend time with family and relatives. Some companies extend the holiday before and after Obon to create a longer break.
Obon Traffic Rush
During this period, bullet trains and highways become extremely crowded as people head home for the holidays. I live in Kyoto, while my parents live in Ehime Prefecture, on the island of Shikoku. The drive normally takes about 4 hours, but during Obon traffic, it can take 6 hours—or even up to 8 hours in the worst cases. Getting stuck in the middle of a packed highway when you desperately need a restroom is truly no fun. Since then, I've made a habit of leaving in the middle of the night to avoid the traffic.
As my children have grown older, we no longer need everyone to gather at the same time, so we've started spreading out our visits home across different dates.
If you're planning to travel in Japan during this period, I'd recommend booking reserved train seats early or choosing to travel outside these peak dates.
Traditional Obon Customs
Obon customs vary by Buddhist sect and household, but here are some of the most common practices.
Shoryo-uma and Shoryo-ushi (Spirit Horse and Spirit Cow)
These are offerings made by sticking chopsticks or skewers into a cucumber and an eggplant to resemble a horse and a cow. The cucumber represents a "welcoming horse," while the eggplant represents a "farewell cow"—vehicles for the ancestors' spirits. The idea is that ancestors can ride the swift horse to arrive quickly, then take the slower cow on their way back, reflecting a wish for them to take their time on the journey home.
Mukaebi and Okuribi (Welcoming and Farewell Fires)
On the first day of Obon, families light a small "welcoming fire" (mukaebi) so ancestral spirits can find their way home without getting lost. On the final day, a "farewell fire" (okuribi) is lit to send the spirits back to the afterlife. In some households, you'll see a small flame burning just outside the front door.
Not every household practices this custom.
In my favorite Japanese manga and anime series, "March Comes in Like a Lion" (a story centered on shogi, Japanese chess), the main characters are shown offering shoryo-uma and shoryo-ushi and lighting a farewell fire in memory of a deceased family member. My own family never practiced this custom growing up, so I actually learned about it for the first time through this anime.
Ohaka-mairi (Visiting Family Graves)
During Obon, family members and relatives who live far away gather together, often to visit the family grave. Together, they clean the gravesite, offer flowers and incense, place their hands together, and quietly speak to their ancestors in their hearts.
Bon Odori (Bon Dance)
On summer evenings, Bon dance festivals are held in local squares and at shrines. Beyond welcoming and entertaining the ancestors' spirits, Bon Odori also serves as a way for community members to connect with one another. Everyone dances together in a circle to the rhythm of taiko drums. Visitors are often welcome to join in on the spot, so if you get the chance, give it a try. Wearing a yukata (a casual summer kimono) can make the experience even more festive.
When I was a child, my neighborhood held a "Bon dance competition" where different districts competed to see who danced best. Every year, adults and children would practice together for a full month leading up to the event. Even now, whenever I hear Bon dance music, my body still moves on its own.
Food stalls selling takoyaki (fried octopus balls) and cotton candy are another highlight of these summer festivals. Some of my best memories are of going to summer festivals with friends.
If you're curious what takoyaki actually is, check out this article:
Toro Nagashi (Floating Lantern Ceremony)
In this ceremony, small paper lanterns lit with candles are set afloat on rivers or the sea to send off the spirits of ancestors. It's a beautiful, almost dreamlike sight that many people love to photograph. This tradition takes place in select regions across Japan, and one of the most famous is the Arashiyama Toro Nagashi in Kyoto, held every year on August 16.
Reference: Kyoto City Official Travel Guide
https://ja.kyoto.travel/event/single.php?event_id=5039
Kyoto's Gozan no Okuribi (The Five Mountain Bonfire Festival)
Every year on the evening of August 16, Kyoto holds the Gozan Okuribi, a ceremonial bonfire event that sends the spirits of ancestors—welcomed during Obon—back to the afterlife.
Five separate bonfires are lit one after another, each forming a different fiery shape across the mountains surrounding the Kyoto basin.
| Lighting Time | Name | Meaning/Shape | Location |
|---|---|---|---|
| 8:00 PM | Daimonji (大文字) | The character "dai" (大), meaning "great" | Higashiyama (Mt. Nyoigatake) |
| 8:05 PM | Myo-Ho (妙・法) | Two Buddhist characters | Matsugasaki |
| 8:10 PM | Funagata (船形) | The shape of a boat | Nishigamo |
| 8:15 PM | Hidari-Daimonji (左大文字) | A second "dai" character | Okitayama (near Kinkaku-ji Temple) |
| 8:20 PM | Toriigata (鳥居形) | The shape of a torii gate | Saga-Toriimoto (near Arashiyama) |
Each fire burns for about 30 minutes, though exact lighting and extinguishing times may shift slightly depending on the weather.
Last year, on August 16, a friend invited me to watch the Gozan Okuribi together. I'll never forget the moment the giant "dai" character appeared in flames on Mt. Daimonji in Higashiyama that night. Around us, people quietly pressed their hands together in prayer—it was a peaceful, beautiful summer evening.
Here's a link to a detailed English-language page, complete with a map, in case you're planning to visit Kyoto on August 16:
https://gozan-okuribi.com/2022/en/top.html
What Travelers Can Enjoy During Obon Season
- Joining local Bon dance festivals
- Watching Kyoto's Gozan Okuribi or floating lantern ceremonies around the country
- Enjoying fireworks displays held alongside summer festivals
- Strolling through town wearing a yukata
Keep in mind a few things, though: many shops close during the Obon holidays, and trains and buses can get extremely crowded. If you're traveling during this time, it's a good idea to check business hours in advance.
In Summary
Obon is a heartwarming tradition through which Japanese people honor their bonds with family and ancestors. Rather than a flashy festival, it's a quiet, warm "season of prayer." If you happen to visit Japan during this time, be sure to experience a local Bon dance or a farewell fire ceremony for yourself—it's a wonderful way to connect with the spirit of honoring one's ancestors that has been cherished in Japan for generations.
