Hello, this is Mog.
Recently, I woke up early and headed to Arashiyama, hoping to see lotus flowers that bloom only in the early morning hours of summer.
What Are Lotus Flowers?
Lotus flowers take root in muddy, murky water, yet send their stems straight upward, blooming into flawlessly beautiful flowers above the water's surface.
They are one of the flowers most associated with summer in Japan, and are deeply connected to Buddhist culture, appearing throughout Buddhist scriptures and art.
Their defining feature is that they bloom only in the early morning. The flowers open at dawn and quietly close again by midday—a fleeting beauty that feels almost mystical.
This time, I visited the "Hojo Pond" (Hojo-chi), located on the south side of the grounds of Tenryu-ji Temple. Tenryu-ji is registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is considered one of the most prestigious temples in Kyoto.
Since Hojo Pond lies outside the temple's paid admission area, visitors can enjoy the lotus flowers for free from early morning, without waiting for the temple's official opening time of 8:30 a.m. The best time to visit is between 7 and 8 a.m., and the flowers are typically in full bloom from mid-July through mid-August.
No matter how deep or muddy the water, the lotus draws up that murky water and, without fail, blooms into a beautiful flower. Because it opens in the morning and closes by midday, one of the flower's meanings in Japanese is "rest." As if speaking directly to me in my slightly tired state, the flowers seemed to whisper, "Stay true to yourself, no matter your surroundings," and "It's okay to rest sometimes."
The Bamboo Grove Path (Chikurin no Komichi)
After taking in the lotus flowers, I made my way to another of Arashiyama's famous sights: the Bamboo Grove Path.
The bamboo stretches straight up toward the sky, and simply looking at it brings a refreshing sense of calm. Even in the early morning, I spotted tourists from overseas. Kyoto has been getting uncomfortably hot during the day lately, and popular spots tend to get crowded. That's exactly why an early-morning visit is the best way to enjoy the city.
As I walked through the grove, I noticed someone already at work tending the bamboo early in the morning. It reminded me of something I learned during a bamboo shoot digging experience I once had—that maintaining a bamboo grove takes an enormous amount of effort. I wrote about that experience in detail in an earlier article.
Kyoto's Approach to Trash Cans
As a side note, public trash cans have become a rare sight on the streets of Japan. In most cases, it's considered good manners to take your trash home with you. In Arashiyama, however, I did come across a trash can.
Looking closer, it turned out to be a modern, high-tech bin—equipped with a compaction feature and a QR code linking to disaster-preparedness information. I couldn't resist snapping a quick photo of this unexpected upgrade.
Togetsukyo: The Symbol of Arashiyama
And of course, no visit to Arashiyama is complete without mentioning this bridge: Togetsukyo.
Togetsukyo is a bridge spanning the Katsura River, measuring about 155 meters long and 12 meters wide. Its origins date back as far as around 836 AD, in the Heian period. The current bridge was rebuilt in 1934; while its structure is made of reinforced concrete, the railings are crafted from wood to blend harmoniously with the surrounding scenery. The bridge is also known for its seasonal beauty, framed by cherry blossoms in spring and autumn foliage in fall.
Jusan Mairi: The Coming-of-Age Legend of Togetsukyo
Togetsukyo carries another fascinating legend, one tied to a springtime coming-of-age tradition unique to Kyoto called "Jusan Mairi."
Jusan Mairi is a ritual in which children who have reached the traditional Japanese age of 13 (known as "kazoedoshi," a counting method in which a child is considered one year old at birth, meaning this typically corresponds to around 12 years old by Western reckoning) visit Horin-ji Temple to pray to Kokuzo Bosatsu, the temple's principal deity, for wisdom and good fortune in the years ahead. Dressed in kimono or formal suits, these children walking across Togetsukyo during this season have become a beloved sight of springtime in Kyoto.
And with this tradition comes a curious legend: on the way home after the visit, children must not look back until they have completely crossed Togetsukyo. According to the story, looking back means losing all the wisdom they were just granted—as though returning it.
Watching the bridge that day, I found myself thinking back to my own daughter's Jusan Mairi. On that day, she resisted the urge to glance at the cherry blossoms, the tourists, or the beautiful scenery around her, and walked straight across the bridge with a serious, focused expression. I remember smiling as I watched her and taking photos of the moment.
Along the riverbank, I also had the chance to chat briefly with a family from New Zealand, who were relaxing and taking in the sound of the flowing river.
It turned out to be a wonderfully refreshing morning.
How to Get to Arashiyama
- JR Sagano Line: About a 10–13 minute walk from JR Saga-Arashiyama Station
- Hankyu Railway: About a 5–8 minute walk from Hankyu Arashiyama Station
- Keifuku Electric Railroad (Randen): About a 5 minute walk from Randen Arashiyama Station (Hojo Pond is just steps away from the station)
- City Bus / Kyoto Bus: Get off directly at the "Arashiyama Tenryuji-mae" bus stop
From Kyoto Station, Arashiyama is easily reached by train in about 20–30 minutes.
Have a wonderful day.💕
